Archive for October, 2006

Ham Hock and Split Pea Soup

Thursday, October 26th, 2006

Ham Hock and Split Pea Soup
by Tom Valenti and Andrew Friedman
from Tom Valenti’s Soups, Stews, and One-Pot Meals
(Scribner, 2003)
Serves 6

Split peas are halved peas, which is obvious. They are also dried peas, which is probably, when you think about it, just as obvious. I mean, have you ever tried to cut a fresh pea in half? Split peas and ham are meant to go together, so much so that a minimum of supporting ingredients are called for to flesh them out into a satisfying soup.

Most people think of split pea soup as a thick-as-can-be affair, and this is how I like it, but it doesn’t need to be. In fact, a thinner version is delicious and more surprising. If you like, add a bit more liquid to thin the soup, and see what you think. (If unsure, you can add some to a cupful of soup at the end and, if you approve, stir more into the pot.)

Ingredients: FOR THE SOUP

2 cups green split peas, picked through, small stones discarded

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into small dice

1 medium Spanish onion, peeled and cut into small dice

1 celery stalk, cut into small dice

Coarse salt & freshly ground black pepper

Sugar

1 large garlic clove, smashed and peeled

1 bay leaf

3marjoram sprigs or thyme

2 quarts homemade or store-bought, reduced-sodium vegetable or chicken broth; water; or a combination

2 pounds smoked ham hocks

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves or Garlic Croutons, optional

FOR THE GARLIC CROUTONS

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons minced garlic

1 loaf peasant or country bread (about 1 pound)

Coarse salt &freshly ground black pepper

Method

MAKE THE SOUP
1. Put the split peas in a bowl and cover with cold water. Set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the carrot, onion, and celery; season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar; and cook, stirring, until the vegetables soften, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes.

3. Drain the split peas and add them to the pot. Add the bay leaf, marjoram, broth, and ham hocks. Give a good stir and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, continuing to stir to keep the peas from scorching. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 1 hour.

4. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to remove the ham hocks from the pot. Set them aside on a plate. Cook the soup for 30 minutes longer, or until the peas and other vegetables have completely broken down and the soup has thickened considerably. If it becomes too thick, add more stock or water.

5. While the soup is simmering, and as soon as the ham hocks have cooled enough to work with, use your hands to remove the meat from the bones, shredding it as you work. There won’t be a lot of it, but what is there is very flavorful. Set the meat aside.

6. When the soup is done, use tongs or a spoon to remove and discard the bay leaf and marjoram sprigs. Taste and correct seasoning, bearing in mind that the bits of ham are salty. Add the reserved ham to the pot. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat before proceeding.

7. To serve, ladle the soup into individual bowls and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Scatter some thyme leaves over each serving, if desired, or float a garlic crouton on top of each bowl.

MAKE THE CROUTONS
1. Melt the butter in a wide, deep sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute to soften it and infuse the butter with its flavor.

2. Add the bread to the pan and cook, tossing frequently, until the bread is crisp and golden brown 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Use at once, or let cool and keep at room temperature for up to 6 hours.

Recipe © 2003 Tom Valenti. All rights reserved.
© 1999–2006 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Butternut Squash Soup

Wednesday, October 18th, 2006

Butternut Squash Soup
by Maria Helm Sinskey
from The Vineyard Kitchen
(HarperCollins, 2003)
Serves 8

Butternut squashes are a fall and winter staple. Roast them with brown sugar, butter and salt as a side dish, use them to perk up mashed potatoes, or stuff them into ravioli. This recipe showcases the most simple and gratifying use of butternut squash, a warm, satisfying soup scented with sage. For a wonderful homey accompaniment serve the soup with a good loaf of crusty bread.

Ingredients

1 butternut squash, 4 pounds

1 medium yellow onion

1 tablespoon unsalted butter or olive oil

1 tablespoon honey

6 sage leaves

Salt & Freshly ground black pepper

4 cups chicken stock

1 cup crème fraîche

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2. Prick the squash with a fork and place it whole on a sheet pan. Roast for 45 minutes in the oven until the squash has softened. Cool the squash, then cut it in half and remove the seeds. Peel the halves and cut into 2-inch chunks. Reserve.

3. Peel, trim, and coarsely chop the onion. Reserve.

4. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. When the butter starts to brown, add the onion and sauté until it is translucent and starts to brown, about 4 to 5 minutes.

5. Add the honey to the onions and cook until it bubbles. Add the squash chunks and sage; season with salt and pepper.

6. Add the chicken stock and enough water to cover the squash by an inch. Bring the soup to a boil and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook the soup until the onions and squash are very tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Add more liquid if necessary to keep the squash submerged. Remove the pan from the heat and cool for 15 minutes.

7. Puree the soup in a blender. Do not fill the blender more than two-thirds full or you risk having the contents explode. Allow the steam to escape by removing the center plug in the lid and covering the hole with a thick towel to protect your hand. Hold the lid securely down and lift the towel slightly to allow the pressurized air to escape as you blend. Strain through a coarse strainer if you want a smoother soup or return it directly to the pan; season it with salt and pepper to taste. Bring the finished soup back to a boil. Ladle it into bowls and serve with a spiral of crème fraîche, about 1 tablespoon per bowl.

Recipe © 2003 Maria Helm Sinskey. All rights reserved.
Photograph © 2003 Robert Sinskey exclusively for Leite’s Culinaria.
© 1999–2006 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Corn Chowder

Tuesday, October 10th, 2006

by Jasper White
from 50 Chowders: One-Pot Meals
— Clam, Corn & Beyond

Serves 6 as a first course
(Scribner, 2000)

corn_chowder.jpg

Corn chowder is the king of farmhouse chowders. Hundreds of recipes for it have been published over the years, but since corn and salt pork were staples of the American farm, it is likely that corn chowder was being made and enjoyed long before any recipe was ever printed.

The use of milk, cream, or condensed milk also varies from recipe to recipe. The Shakers, members of the well-known utopian community, are renowned today for their austere yet beautiful furniture, but they were also highly regarded for their cooking skills, especially their farmhouse chowders. My version of corn chowder is made similar to the Shaker style, according to a recipe from the Shakers at Hancock Village in Pittsfield, Massachusetts (1900), using fresh corn, butter, and cream its mellow, sweet flavor and lovely pale golden color are very comforting, and it is a big favorite with children as well as adults. — Jasper White

For equipment, you will need a 3- to 4-quart heavy pot with a lid, a wooden spoon, and a ladle.

Ingredients

3 medium ears, Fresh yellow or bicolor corn

4 ounces Slab (unsliced) bacon, rind removed and cut into 1/3-inch dice

2 tablespoons Unsalted butter

1 medium Onion (7 to 8 ounces), cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/2 large Red bell pepper (6 to 8 ounces), cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 to 2 sprigs Fresh thyme, leaves removed and chopped (1/2 teaspoon)

1/2 teaspoon Ground cumin

1/8 teaspoon Turmeric

1 pound Yukon Gold, Maine, PEI, or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

3 cups Chicken stock or chicken broth

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons Cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water

1 cup Heavy cream

Garnish

2 tablespoons Minced fresh chives or thinly sliced scallions

Method

1. Husk the corn. Carefully remove most of the silk by hand and then rub the ears with a towel to finish the job. Cut the kernels from the cobs and place in a bowl. You should have about 2 cups. Using the back of your knife, scrape down the cobs and add the milky substance that oozes out to the corn kernels.

2. Heat a 3- to 4-quart heavy pot over low heat and add the diced bacon. Once it has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase the heat to medium and cook until the bacon is crisp and golden brown. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot.

3. Add the butter, onion, bell pepper, thyme, cumin, and turmeric and sauté, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for about 8 minutes, until the onion and pepper are tender but not browned.

4. Add the corn kernels, potatoes, and stock, turn up the heat, cover, and boil vigorously for about 10 minutes. Some of the potatoes will have broken up, but most should retain their shape. Use the back of your spoon to smash a bit of the corn and potatoes against the side of the pot. Reduce the heat to medium and season the chowder with salt and pepper.

5. Stir the cornstarch mixture and slowly pour it into the pot, stirring constantly. As soon as the chowder has come back to a boil and thickened slightly, remove from the heat and Stir in the cream. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. If you are not serving the chowder within the hour, let it cool a bit, then refrigerate; cover the chowder after it has chilled completely. Otherwise, let it sit at room temperature for up to an hour, allowing the flavors to meld.

6. When ready to serve, reheat the chowder over low heat; don’t let it boil. Ladle into cups or bowls and sprinkle with the chopped chives.



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